Supplying Demand

The Repair Brand

maintenance

How to Beat the Summer Heat

by

Tips for cooling your home during a heat wave

We’ve been having some wicked heat and humidity already this summer, and it’s only going to get hotter until Fall. We’ve put together some tips to help keep your house cool and your HVAC systems running efficiently through the rest of the summer. 

Set Your Thermostat Higher (Between 75 to 78 Degrees)

No one wants to hear this, especially when it’s 90° and higher outside. However, your AC can only lower the temperature in your home to a maximum of 20° from the outside temperature, so keeping your thermostat set within that range will help slow down heat gain in the house.

This will also help your HVAC systems run more efficiently, as it won’t be working as hard to keep your house between 68-70 degrees.

Invest in a Programmable Thermostat and Set Fans to “On” Instead of “Auto”

Your thermostat is a good indicator of how efficiently your system is running. Using a programmable thermostat allows you to control the temperature of your home when you’re away, which can help save you money.

Turning the AC fan to “On” instead of “Auto” will help circulate the air in your home and cool it down, and is especially helpful for two-story homes.

Use Fans to Cool Down

Ceiling fans and floor fans help circulate the air and keep us feeling cooler when it’s hot out. They do not actually cool down the room (they help us feel cool), so be sure to conserve energy and only turn the fan on in an occupied room.

Close Drapes, Blinds, Shutters, Etc.

It might make your house seem a little dark and cave-like, especially since we just came out of the colder months, but keeping windows covered on the sunny side of your house will keep your house cooler, especially during a heat wave.

Avoid Using Heat Generating Appliances on Extremely Hot Days

Who doesn’t love takeout? If you receive a Heat Advisory weather alert this summer, it’s probably best to avoid using the stove or oven during these days, as they (obviously) generate even more heat in your home for your AC to contend with.

If it is unavoidable to use the stove or oven, you may want to wait until later in the evening when it’s cooler or try grilling outside instead.

Change Your Air Filters and Check Outdoor Systems

If your Air Conditioner is not cooling your house, you may have a dirty or clogged air filter. Be sure to change or clean these every 2-3 months to keep your AC running efficiently.

We get some wild summer storms in Middle Tennessee, which can blow around tree branches and leaves, as well as other kinds of debris. No matter where you live, you should always check your outdoor systems for any blockages or build-up of debris and carefully clear it away.

Clean Air Ducts, Vents, & Registers

Keeping your vents, ducts, and registers clean makes sure that nothing is impacting the airflow from your air conditioner and also improves the overall efficiency of your system, as well as the quality of air in your home.

Schedule Preventative Maintenance

Your AC should run much smoother once these preventative and regular maintenance steps have been completed. However, it’s still recommended that you schedule maintenance on your HVAC systems twice yearly.

An HVAC technician will be able to check all the parts of your air conditioner and ensure they are all in good working order and hopefully catch any issues before they become a big expense.

With these tips in mind, we hope you stay cool this summer.

We have a couple of video tutorials to help you get started with HVAC repairs. If any of these videos helped you out, let us know!

Who Washes The Dishwasher?

by

Inspecting the accumulator and W10083957V 8268383 chopper in a dishwasher 👀

How it started: A couple of dishes on the top rack looked dirty after a wash. Not a big deal, but maybe a symptom of water struggling to reach the upper rack. Ok…so I ran a bottle of dishwasher cleaner through the dishwasher. That should do it, right? Nope. Dirty dishes again.

A dishwasher cleaner is not a replacement for a service technician or periodic maintenance. After the washing didn’t improve with the dishwasher cleaner, I knew it was time……time…for repair. TO THE TOOLS!!!

Toolbag was unorganized. Garage is a wreck. But, I just needed a torx and pliers.

TOOLS USED: 2

  • Pliers are used to hold the spray arm retainer while you gently unscrew the lower wash arm.
  • The accumulator (the thing under the spray arm with fragile mesh screens*) has 4 Torx screws. The chopper cover underneath uses a slightly smaller Torx screw. I was conveniently surprised this Torx T15 bit fit both.
  • *fragile mesh screens – Be very careful. I’ve seen tools slip and poke a hole through the screen which requires the accumulator to be replaced.

PHASE 1 – Remove and Clean Accumulator

I had just ran a dishwasher cleaner. But, just look at this stuff. It’s not going anywhere. This is grease, cooking oils, etc. But, it could’ve been worse. Hard water. White calcium deposits that stick like concrete. If your dishes come out white, or filmy, it may be hard water. I can cover that a bit later. The picture below may be gross, but it can be easily cleaned. If this were calcium, you might honestly need a wire brush. That stuff builds up like barnacles on a boat.

Luckily, a quick wash in the sink and the gross is gone. I first wiped it with a cleaning cloth and disposed of any large amounts in the trash. I was then able to easily clean off the remaining parts with soap and water.

NOTE: If you clean your dishwasher parts, do not leave even a DROP of dish soap on these parts or it will create a foam party in your kitchen. Rinse thoroughly.

PHASE 2 – Inspect and Clean Chopper Area – Check Valve

Toothpicks. Plastic. Straws. Nuts. Seeds. Glass shards. Bread ties.

Underneath this cover, the dishwasher’s chopper blade is attached to the motor. As the wash motor runs to circulate and pump the water, this is essentially the “filter” where all the water is pulled through. The chopper reduces any soft scraps that get through. But, you have to remove the accumulator to get to it. A small torx on the left side and this part lifts free. Gently rock it as you pull up.

dishwasher drain filter clogged with debris
dishwasher drain chopper and check valve

I used a shop-vac to quickly remove the debris, but needle-nose pliers and paper towels work just as well. I did not check the check valve. I wasn’t having draining issues (a common symptom for a faulty check valve), so it didn’t seem like something I needed to mess with. It would’ve been a good idea to replace it with a new WP8268375 check valve had I planned ahead.

PHASE 3 – Reassemble

That’s it. Five screws and maybe an hour. You may notice Fisher & Paykel or Bosch dishwashers with easy, removable filter screens. Unfortunately, not all dishwashers are made the same and some dishwashers require a little research before you perform any preventative maintenance. If

Periodic maintenance is vital for peak dishwasher washing performance. This may also extend the life of your dishwasher and ensuring your dishes come out as clean as possible.

Icemaker Not Making Ice But It’s Not The Icemaker Not Making Ice

by

READ to understand how icemakers work and it may assist you in troubleshooting.

The technological marvel inside our freezers that keeps us from having to crack and refill our plastic icetrays is called an “icemaker.”

The problem is, the “icemaker” does not “make” ice.

The icemaker is just one final component in a series of related parts working in harmony to create and harvest ice-cubes for your iced-drinking pleasure.

The icemaker should not be called “icemaker.”

Read below to find out what all could go wrong during the icemaking process and stop blaming the thing in your freezer that holds the water until it freezes.

1. | Water Supply

Is the icemaker getting water?

A friend of mine replaced an icemaker because it wasn’t making ice. Turns out, his refrigerator wasn’t even getting water. Ice starts, behind your refrigerator, at the water supply box. Make sure water is on and you’ve paid your water bill. Inspect for leaks anytime you interact with the supply box.

Inspect the supply hose attached from your supply box to the water valve on the back of your refrigerator. Check to make sure it’s not pinched behind the refrigerator, isn’t kinked, and hasn’t been rolled over by the wheel. These hoses are often 1/4″. Shop our Stainless and PVC water supply line options in our storefront.

2. | Water Valve

One, if not the most important, ingredient to making ice is water. Many refrigerators are now equipped with convenient in-door water dispensers and even multiple icemakers. The workhorse behind this water wizardry is the refrigerator water valve.

WEEPING 💧 : To quickly elaborate on “weeping” 💧 , this is the same as your kitchen faucet dripping. But, imagine that drip inside your refrigerator’s water lines, pushing water INTO your icemaker’s tray. “Weeping” valves can hide under the radar for a while. They’ll function properly most of the time. But, drip, drip, drip…until a leak…or until it overfills your icemaker, binding up, and eventually burning up the icemaker. So, because the icemaker is broken, you replace the icemaker. But, drip, drip, drip, drip, drip, drip…

Recommended: Replace the water valve and icemaker at the same time. Like tires or shoes.

3. | Bad Optics. Not feeling it.

[Left] Optics ice-level sensor control boards [Right] Metal bail-arm, shut-off, or “feeler” arm

Icemakers can’t see. They don’t just make ice non-stop, so how do they know when to stop making ice? They may utilize either a sensor or manual arm to sense the ice-level in the ice bin. READ THIS AGAIN. The icemaker may use separate sensors to relay information back to the icemaker before it can continue to cycle.

WHY IS THIS IMPORTANT? Because if that board tells the icemaker the ice bin is full, whether it is full or not, the icemaker will not function. It will not proceed. It will not make ice. Because it is being told by the optic sensors that the bin is full. Just because you can see there’s no ice doesn’t mean the optic sensors see the same thing, which means the icemaker could be getting bad information and stops its cycle assuming the bin is full.

Optic sensors relay bin capacity to the icemaker
Many, many, many icemakers (including my own) have been replaced for not making ice. But, it was the optic sensors.

4. | Temperature

Ok, we covered the main ingredient, water. Now, how do we get ice? Temperature.

Does the icemaker control the temperature? No.

Can the icemaker make the freezer colder? No.

Just like the ice-level sensors mentioned above, the icemaker AGAIN relies on several other components to not only bring down the temperature low enough to FREEZE the ice (thermostats, compressor, thermistor, cold controls, control boards, defrost components), but then also the sensors or boards to send the signal to the icemaker to give it the “ok-it’s-cold-enough-to-make-ice-signal” to move forward and continue making ice.

Some icemakers are equipped with internal thermostats and may not initiate until it reaches a certain temperature, but then it hands the baton over to many other components during the icemaking process. Icemakers depend on information relayed from thermistors, sensors, thermostats, or control boards. Most ice-making cycles require the freezer to be at or below 10 degrees F.

Air Gaps

Unless you’re less than three-feet tall or have a neck like a flamingo, I doubt you see whether or not the dispenser door closes. Ice can get jammed, or the dispenser door could not completely close. This is an example of a dispenser door repair kit. (*compatible with select models) But, this is an example of all the parts responsible for closing and sealing up the dispenser door. The smallest crack allows warm air to enter the freezer, affecting the…temperature.

Air gaps in the dispenser door or refrigerator or freezer door gasket disrupt the temperature inside your freezer. Additionally, as the warm air mixes with the cold air, it creates frost. This frost may begin to buildup on moving parts or affect airflow. Some buildups will lock up your evaporator fan motor as the frost collects around the blades.

Be aware of air gaps. Anything affecting temperature may eventually affect the icemaker.

Ice blocks the refrigerator dispenser door from closing.

5. | Switch – Board

We briefly covered this above. Icemakers rely on other components before continuing to cycle. Many components can interrupt, disrupt, or suspend the icemaker’s cycle. The icemaker is doing its job by listening to these components.

Door Switch – Do you have to close the refrigerator door to fill your glass with water from the in-door dispenser? Or have you ever heard the icemaker motor cycling or turning and it pauses when you open the door? I understand you closed the door and you can see it is closed. But, if the switch is faulty, it may be telling the icemaker the door is open. If your model pauses when the door opens, it’s possible the door switch is telling the icemaker the door is open, so it pauses the cycle.

6. | Ice Maker

You’ve checked or replaced everything else? Ok. It’s probably the icemaker.

If you’re positive the water supply is on > water lines are connected > water valve is good > ice-level arm or sensor is good > temperature is 10ish or below > defrost cycle defrosts and cycles properly….

Last resort: Remove the icemaker from the freezer. Let it thaw and reset overnight. The following day, before reinstalling, turn off your refrigerator either by unplugging or turning off the breaker. Once installed, give it 24-48 hours. If it begins to cycle, great. If an underlying issue is present that caused the original issue, be aware it could creep back up in the days or weeks to follow. Like the weeping 💧 drip, drip, drip, drip scenario.

So, how do I figure out what’s bad?

Proper diagnosis and troubleshooting, or contact a service professional. You should never attempt a repair if you are unfamiliar with electrical and water safety and have the proper personal protection equipment.

True story: After ripping apart my refrigerator’s freezer and replacing the icemaker, I woke up the next morning and found one batch of ice. Did I receive a bad icemaker? Or was it a bad diagnosis? Hint: It was the latter.

Despite knowing I should have performed a service test, I still blindly went with what was most obvious. The icemaker that’s not making ice. Had I diagnosed the issue properly, I would’ve saved both time and money.

In my case, I finally stopped long enough to locate the tech specs and ran the refrigerator’s service mode (only to be performed by professional service technicians) to find the Ice Level Sensor Service Test. The test came back “Ice bin – Full”, despite having no ice in the bin. That’s why the icemaker stopped. So, the icemaker wasn’t making ice, but it wasn’t the icemaker not making ice.

Cleaning Refrigerator Coils

by

When the pandemic began and some of us were stuck at home, I made a short video about cleaning your refrigerator coils. This is a simple process and something that should be done at least once a year, if not twice a year. When your refrigerator is running, the fans pull air through the lower grille. This helps exhaust the heat being pulled from within the refrigerator and freezer. But, behind that grille may be dirty coils. If not cleaned periodically, your refrigerator will not be able to cool properly. If not cleaned periodically, the trapped hair, dust, and lint will insulate the coils, trapping the heat, and restricting air flow.

Full Explainer Video – 2:36

📌 You can extend the life of your refrigerator by cleaning the coils once or twice a year.

These coils can be difficult to clean. They don’t have sparkle and shine when you’re done. The main objective is to use a narrow Coil Cleaning Brush to slip through the openings and help knock down some of the built-up dust. Get as much as you can. Don’t use anything that might puncture the coil or damage the refrigerator.

QUICK Example of a refrigerator coil cleaning – 0:15

Will It Fit?

by

Importance of Appliance Model and Part Compatibility

It’s time to ramble about the importance of model numbers and part compatibility. But, in this post, I will eventually share everything I know about how YOU can verify part compatibility on your own and be confident when you order replacement parts.

“Your part looks the same as my part. It’ll probably work, right?”

No.

Would you grab a bag from baggage claim that looked like yours? The clothes would probably fit, right?

Probably not.

Each appliance model uses a list of compatible replacement parts that fit it perfectly, just like you and your clothes. You could take a chance and grab the black bag with rollers, or would you rather ensure your name is on the tag to know for sure that the contents inside are yours and will fit you? Done with the analogies. Let’s get to the knowledge.

Got Your Number?

  • Model Number: The model number of your appliance is linked to a list of all compatible replacement parts
    • Not usually found on the front of or at the bottom of user manuals or at the end of random labels on the door. The model number is typically clearly defined on the model number sticker and is often accompanied by the serial number and other manufacturer dates and information.
    • Is that an O or an 0? It that an I or a 1? 🎯 TIP: Write down both if you’re not sure, because it has to be exact. I’ll show you how to verify shortly. 👀
  • Serial Number: Needed for manufacturer information, warranty tracking purposes
    • Some models may require the first two digits of your serial number to verify part compatibility.
  • Part Number: This is the part number of the part.
    • You can locate your model’s compatible replacement part number after some quick research, and I’ll share that secret shortly. 👀
Model Numbers located on the appliance containing model, serial, and other manufacturer information.
These are NOT model numbers.

Where do I find my model number?

I made a video to help you locate the most common places to locate your model number on the most popular appliances.

HOW TO VERIFY:

By Brand

Enter your model number in the your brand’s search to find a list of compatible parts for your specific model.

  • Amana
  • Bosch
  • Frigidaire
    • Will accept Kenmore model numbers manufactured by Frigidaire/Electrolux
  • GE – General Electric
    • A helpful search for GE owners. Many GE model numbers contain spaces, zeroes, or even an asterisk in the middle of the model number. These characters have been removed from most searches. If you were to search your exact model number on a universal site, you may not find any results, despite entering it exactly as it is from your label. But, on GE’s website, they’ve done the work to catch this for you and provide you with results that are close to or exact to your model number.
  • JennAir
  • Kenmore – SEARS
    • Kenmore is often manufactured by different brands. Because of this, Sears search will work for most brands.
    • 🎯 TIP: Let the search’s predictive text help you. Type a few characters and watch the results populate and narrow with each additional character. This helps if you’re unsure about an O or an 0, or a 5 or an S.
  • KitchenAid
  • Maytag
  • Thermador
  • Whirlpool
    • Verify the model is the same after you search. If there was, for example, a 1 at the end of your model number and the results pull up compatible parts for the same model number that ends in a 0…do more research using the links below. Make sure your model matches exactly. I’ve seen some searches find a close match and provide parts compatible with a similar model. Check searched model before and after for accuracy.

My Brand Isn’t Listed

Search and Research

The list above is a partial list of specific brands that I’ve found that offer compatibility searches. Below is a list of sites that offer compatibility searches for most brand’s model numbers.

  • Sears Parts Direct – Mentioned earlier for Kenmore, but an excellent universal option.
    • 🎯 TIP: Let the search’s predictive text help you. Type a few characters and watch the results populate and narrow with each additional character. This helps if you’re unsure about an O or an 0, or a 5 or an S.
  • RepairClinic – A great site. Highly recommend.
  • AppliancePartsPros – Helpful diagrams and Q&A
  • PartSelect – Great site and includes many Canadian models
  • Google – Seems pretty obvious, right? A google search may help you find more information about your model.

Update: Parts and Part Numbers Update

In this industry, manufacturers are constantly improving the safety and efficiency of their parts. They may even update the color of the whole part to make it easier to identify the updated part against the previous design.

Part Number 154568002

If you clicked the link above, you’ll find a blue spray arm. This was for a 154568002 dishwasher spray arm, which used to be grey or white. But the part number was updated to 5304517203 and the color is now blue.

Part Number 154568001

A similar dishwasher spray arm is part number 154568001. Despite being close (just one-digit off), this spray arm is not compatible with 154568002. The 154568001 is now also blue, and has been updated to part number 5304518927.

🎯 TIP: Be aware of search engines that pull in “exact and/or similar” numbers, like the example above. The 8001 and 8002 spray arms are not cross-compatible, but may often pop up in search results because of the similar part numbers and product description.

You might have to check the alternative part numbers to know if your part has been updated to a new part number. For example, the W10757851 optic board was updated from part number 4389102 to W10757851. Check the alternative part numbers for all previous part numbers associated with that part number.

How will I know for sure the part is compatible?

Do your research using the resources above and compare results. Check the brand’s search options above. Check the universal search options above. When I personally help a customer, I check multiple sites, multiple times. Ordering or installing an incompatible part is often a financial and timely setback.

or

You can contact Supplying Demand. We’re always happy to help.

No Directions

How do I install it?

Parts are often compatible with dozens, if not hundreds, of models…each with their own particular screw or spring clamp or unique little way to get into the appliance model and access the part to be replaced.

🎯 TIP: Study the above links, look at diagrams (if available) of how parts are assembled, and lastly…once you know the part number you’re trying to install or repair…YouTube it. There are a ton of free, helpful DIY videos online.

A very long video I did 4 years ago on how to do a W10712394 Dishwasher Dishrack Adjuster Repair.

I got the right part, but it didn’t fix the problem.

This happens. I wrote about this kind of scenario for refrigerator icemakers. ICEMAKER NOT MAKING ICE BUT IT’S NOT THE ICEMAKER NOT MAKING ICE. If you’re not familiar with appliance repair, I always recommend contacting a service professional in your area. Appliances are dangerous. Do not underestimate the dangers of repairing an appliance. Only attempt to do so after you’ve done your research and have the proper tools and safety equipment to perform the repair. Also, take every precaution to ensure you are as safe as possible. Clear the area. Turn off power or water. Unplug the appliance. Whatever is necessary for your safety. If you cannot safely diagnose or repair an issue with your appliance, contact a service professional.

We Listen

Thank you to Frank K.

“You write all this stuff about know you model number. Great. But where is the info that matches the model number to the part??” – Frank K.

Frank, you were my inspiration to put together this list. I hope it helps you and future customers who just need the information to match up the parts they need that are compatible with their model and prevent frustrating repairs.

Happy Repairing!

Exhausting.

by

A dryer needs a place to vent. Here’s why you should listen and what you can do to help.

“My clothes aren’t drying.”

“It’s not getting hot enough.”

“My clothes are coming out damp.”

“I think the element might be going out.”

“The door is dripping wet when I open it?!?!?!”

The most important part of your dryer is not even part of the dryer. It’s the exhaust vent. That doesn’t mean JUST the stuff snakely-crammed in-behind the back of the dryer and the wall. It’s everything from your dryer, to the wall, and through the house, to the vent cap on the outside of the home. Your dryer vent is the most critical part of the drying process.

Make it short and simple.

The vent needs to be as short as possible, with as few bends, twists, and elbows as possible. The quicker the dryer can expel the moisture from your clothes, the quicker they will dry. This will save you money on utilities and reduces the stress on your dryer, which may save you a repair bill or two.

What if it’s not short and simple?

I understand you do not have x-ray vision and can’t see inside your walls and under your floors to locate your vent duct, but you must know where your vent goes and where the vent terminates, usually to a vent duct outside your home, sometimes even on your roof.

Or it doesn’t terminate at all, because it hasn’t been maintained, and now it’s blowing moisture and lint underneath your home. This can lead to mold or even structural damage. I’ve seen customers buy brand new dryers in hopes drying performance would improve, but….

A dryer works only as well as the dryer vent.

Keep It Clean.

NO GARDEN HOSES. NO LEAF BLOWERS.

First, let’s find the right tool. The proper tool is a 4-inch dryer vent cleaning brush. Here’s some examples. Don’t go out a buy a power drill if you don’t have one. Just use your hands and manually use the vent brush.

Why no leaf blowers or hosepipes? Look above at the image of the rooftop vent cap. Do you see how the lint is pasted and stuck to the walls of the vent? This requires a vent brush to loosen and scrape the lint from the walls so it can be blown out of the vent.

For Demonstration Purposes Only. A dryer lint vent bag is recommended.

The inside of the dryer vent should be dry and clean. When lint mixes with moisture, it becomes a heavy paste, like lint mud.

Here’s how.

  1. Estimate the length of the vent
  2. Locate the vent duct on the exterior of the home
  3. Insert the vent brush from the outside, with the dryer running. Start brushing, going in and out with one vent rod at a time, and adding a vent rod once that section is cleaned to extend the vent brush deeper into the dryer vent.
  4. The velocity of the exhaust should have force behind it. If you cover the vent with your hand, you should hear and feel the air trying to squeeze through your fingers.

Brush kit tips:

NOTE: If something catches or twists or binds, stop. The rods will break. It’s no fun to waste $50 or more on a tool, only to have it break inside the vent, causing you to take the vent apart to remove it…which then gives you a convenient moment to clean the vent sections you removed.

Work in small sections to prevent twisting and binding.
Wear PPE. Definitely keep mouth closed. #dontbethisguy #stockphoto #thatsnotme

NOTE NOTE: PVC and plastic vents may hold water and are not recommended dryer vent material. Flexible vents may not be able to be cleaned, as they may rip or bind in the cleaning process. The best and easiest type of vent to use/clean is either rigid or solid aluminum.

NOTE NOTE NOTE: Wear gloves, long sleeves, protective eyewear, and a mask. Dryer vent ducts can have razor-sharp edges. When cleaning dryer vents, it’s best to be prepared.

#wearamask

After your vent is cleaned, your dryer should be purring like new.

#prrrprrrprrrprrrprrrprrrprrrprrrprrrprrrprrrprrr